Category Archives: France, Food, Travel & Culture

Food and travel for me is a synonym. As were driving from the South of England towards York, my husband and I were talking what would be the dream meal for that day. I said roast lamb and mash, and him liver and mash. Then I mentioned to him that the most memorable liver meal I ever had was in Monaco. To be exact, at the port of Monte Carlo in the restaurant called Quai des Artistes.
Its modern Parisian style brasserie in the most desirable spot bang on the Monaco harbour. And it’s far more than just a brasserie; the interior walls are given over to art exhibitions; the gorgeous terrace with its monumental sculptures and lush plants is practically in the water, and the entrance is designed like a Parisian subway.Be prepared to pay around 50 euro without the wine.
This place also serves a fantastic bouillabaisse, topped with puff pastry with cheese.

What I know about Monaco?
Monaco is a sovereign and independent state, the Principality of Monaco has borders on its landward side with several communes of the French Department of the Alpes-Maritimes; from west to east these are Cap d’Ail, la Turbie, Beausoleil and Roquebrune Cap Martin. Seawards, Monaco faces the Mediterranean Sea. Just over 2 klm width.
You can spend a day here and spend a lot of money if you wish.
Monaco is divided into 5 areas
Monaco-Ville on the Rock, the old fortified town, with the Prince’s Palace, the ramparts, the gardens, the Cathedral and the Oceanographic Museum.
The Condamine is the second oldest area in Monaco at the foot of a village or castle.
Monte-Carlo, created in 1866, named in honor of Prince Charles III, hosts an the famous Casino, luxury hotels and leisure facilities, some created recently: Larvotto beach, the Monte Carlo Sporting Club, the Boulingrins Gardens.
Fontvieille is the newest area of the Principality of Monaco and was created from land reclaimed from the sea. This man-made waterfront area features a harbour, stadium, heliport, as well as some shopping areas. (This is where I was based for 6 months in 2002)
Moneghetti, home to the Exotic Gardens on the western side.

Places to visit in Monaco
Condamine Market and Rue Princess Caroline Pedestrian Mall
The Market first opened its doors in 1880, the present-day covered market on the Place d’Armes is modern with get cheap places to eat.
Nearby is the lively esplanade, the rue Princesse-Caroline pedestrian mall is just a few steps away; the visitor will discover pleasant landscaped areas. This is not far from the port where all mega yachts are harboured. Walk along the harbour and get the chance to see the yachts of the rich and the famous.

Monte Carlo Casino
Charles Garnier, the architect of the opera house in Paris, built the Casino in 1878.
The “atrium”, paved in marble, is surrounded by 28 Ionic columns in onyx. It leads into the auditorium of the opera, called the “Salle Garnier”, which is decorated in red and gold, with a profusion of bas-reliefs, frescoes and sculptures. The “gaming rooms” comprise a succession of numerous rooms featuring stained glass windows, admirable decorations and sculptures, allegorical paintings and bronze lamps.
Great place to watch the moneyed people come and go, nearby is the famous Café de Paris.

Monaco Cathedral
Built in 1875 using white stone from La Turbie, the present-day Cathedral stands on the site of a 13th century church dedicated to Saint Nicolas and houses the tombs of the former Princes of Monaco. It is also the final resting place of Monaco’s much loved Princess Grace.

Monaco is easy to enjoy by foot, there are 5 regular bus routes that circulates or take the train azur, from the Old town at the Palace down to the port.
Other places to visit:
1)Oceanographic Museum & Aquarium
2) The gardens of the casino where sculptures are exhibited
3) Jardin Exotique
4) Le Metropole shopping centre

Eating depends on your budget. Monaco can be very expensive. Near the port are some small good brasseries Or go to Fontvieille at the supermarket.
Those who wish to take a culinary trip, Monaco is a great place to be, there is a myriad of choice in Monaco
The best seafood I have been to is
Le Saint Benoit with French Italian cuisine, at 10, terrasse avenue de la Costa

Try the fish cooked en papilotte. Pah pee yoht. The fish is baked inside a parchment paper. As soon it cooks the paper puffs up into a dome shape. At the table the paper is slit to reveal the food.
If you are just going to see Monaco, then have a coffee or a small bistro style food, at Café de Paris, worth the experience.

Photo taken outside Monaco proper near the Monaco tennis club, we were driving back from Italy and at this spot you can view the whole of Monaco, with the yachts cruising and a cruise ship anchored outside the port.

Casino Gardens and Terraces lace du Casino

Opposite the casino are magnificent flowerbeds and carefully tended lawns interspersed with ponds in which reeds and water lilies grow. The gardens slope gently upwards in the direction of the shopping street of the town, forming a perspective admired by visitors from all over the world.
The back of the Casino, facing the sea, is bordered by sunny terraces. A striking multicolored geometrical work by Vasarely decorates the roof of the Convention Center and Auditorium.

Every year there are different sculptural exhibitions in this garden, the best I have seen were on animals. There is a small cafe on the right side, but I normally just bring my own snack with my newspaper.
I took that photo pre digital days when I was testing my Ixus APS camera.

When I say am going to France, the first thing people ask if I was going to Paris. No, France in my heart is Cote D’ Azur, Provence, the lavenders, the market, Roman fortresses, the ciccada , les cigalles singing and the sea.
I love going to the French market, the marche, each town has their own weekly farmers market, when paysans- independent farmers ,artisan cheese makers, bakers, come down and sell their products. I don’t know for how long this will go on as EU regulations has been affecting many traditional artisans.
Bigger towns of course had their own permanent markets like the one in Cannes, Nice and one of my favourite in Monaco. In Monaco its smaller and intimate, by noon its gone. I love having my lunch at the brasserie next to it having the usual basic French fare of steak fritte. I love watching the bustle of the market.
The best market I have been to was the one in St Tropez, other than vegetables and fruits, you can buy ducks, pigeons, pheasant and rabbits. Craftsmen come too with baskets made willow branches. Perhaps that’s the first thing you need to buy. Fabrics as bright as the Provence sun, hand made olive soaps & herbal soaps: lavender, lemon verbena and roses. Floral and herb scent wafts the market! And dont forget the market rituals of touching and smelling.

With your bounty grab a baguette and go for a picnic! Or pick your bench and watch those men play boulles
“A la semaine prochaine, monsieur.”

For those planning to visit South of France, I recommend you this book and if you are staying with friends, dont plan your menu see first what the market to offer.