… a gem for a less, restaurant acchiardo

September 29, 2009 by Shalimar | 7 Comments

acchiardo2

I wonder what made me enter that place… I was walking around the web of streets in the old town of Nice (Vieux Nice), and had no plans to eat lunch yet… I was just stopping by and taking photos. But I found myself asking for a table for one, a cosy place with gingham tablecloths. There was no minute to decide the aroma of the food literally just grabbed me in. What probably attracted me to the place was I heard no nattering of other languages other than French. I know by the look of the place , the feel and smell I found a gem. The tables inside are lined up in closed rows and walls are decorated with old copper pots and moulds as well as old lithographs of Nice. Nice or Nizza by the way was once a part of Italy, until 1860 when Victor -Emmanuel III with an agreement with Napoleon III handed Nizza to France.

lunch2

So back to food I rather not bore you with history…

I did not look at the menu, I ordered the plat du jour which was osso bucco. It came with a plate of tagliatelle. I also asked for verre de vin, a glass of rose wine. I could see the people around me were locals and it had a feeling that you have entered your favourite grandmother’s house. Acchiardo is unpretentious and homey, certainly not for people who have no adventurous souls.

chef2

While waiting for the food I managed to take photos of the interior and much to my delight sneaked to the kitchen as well. I was happily lost in my thoughts, when I noticed the two waiters have the same face of the woman tending the bar. They turned out to be brothers, Jean-François and Raphaël, The Acchiardo is a family run restaurant.

ossobucco2

The osso bucco was perfect, the flavour was well balanced and good portion too that I barely touched the tagliatelli. Just when I was asked if I want dessert , I saw the menu. It is much more a cross over of a provencal and Italian cuisine. I ended my solitary lunch with a tiramisu and a big smile on my face, for I have found indeed a jem for less, my lunch was only €19.80

alps2

A day after this lunch I was east bound to Greece with my flight via Geneve, I could see the coast lines of Cote d’ Azur which I have seem to memorize by now. Then my heart fluttered when I saw the peaks of the Alps, I may have traveled a lot but flying over the Alps is one of my favourite journeys.
old town 2

Da Acchiardo en Nizza Veilhla
38 Rue Droite Tel:
+ 33 49 385 5116

More photos of Nice here and here…

Posted in DINING, France, Food, Travel & Culture

…captain don’t fire me

September 9, 2009 by Shalimar | 4 Comments

Yesterday as we went to St Laurent du Var for crew dinner, I was almost choked with my emotions.

I am actually leaving again… the thought of leaving this crew just make my heart ache. They have been wonderful to work with and my accomplice to my food escapades. These boys just love good food and are willing to try something new or encouraging me what to cook.

When we were traveling to Italy on our passage to Ischia they would come shopping and check the fishmonger and if they find something unusual before I could see it they would gladly point it out to me.

They are also the ones who check my photos first and are my “fans”… in all they are the one who made my life so much easier when work overwhelmed me.

Last Sunday I knew it would be our last weekend sharing a meal on our crew table. For months they have asked me to cook some noodles to be specific the rice noodles, which we call Pancit Bihon.
I love Bihon, its just I don’t have the time to cook for it as it involves slicing many vegetables that is just time consuming – which I do not mind, except of course that I have the family too cook for, our chef was away so I did most of the cooking.

Bihon is one of my favourite food, Pancit Bihon will surely be on my comfort food list that transport me back “home”, the food my mother would cook as a treat for us.

So knowing it was our last Sunday together I made an effort to cook Bihon for us. I used both pork and beef with carrots, cabbage , baby corns and courgettes.


leaving amalfi for the eolian islands

We left the port earlier than the usual and as soon we dropped anchor, I plated some and took some photos, at the same time telling my captain….

CAPTAIN DON’T FIRE ME… I am plating some noodles and will set it up on the bridge for photos.
He knows my weakness and he knows the existence of this blog… so while they took the toys out from the garage, I managed to take few photographs.

Then I rushed them to eat lunch because the boss called if I can do lunch for them.
When we all sat down, I could see on their faces how happy they were and we were lost in our thoughts savouring the noodles, when the captain’s phone rang.

Time to pick up the family. The boys asked if they can have the left over for the afternoon snacks.

Sure do…

As for the crew they have begged me to stay longer but I really have to move on…

Posted in Asian, Pasta & Rice

…”best pasta in the world”

September 3, 2009 by Shalimar | 2 Comments

IMG_5905

With the summer fading away, I made the last lunch for the family today. One of the kids left for London while the rest of the family are leaving on Friday.

This means too, I leave France soon and head back home to rest before heading to Florida. The girl who left today would come down to the galley when I make this pasta for the kids.
She would then say, “Shalimar it’s the best pasta in the world.”

I know I can easily use canned or bottled sauces for this, but I do enjoy making a fresh sauce for the kids. Yes kids, but why not cook a proper pasta sauce for them. This is  tomato basil sauce, but what I used on this are fresh cherry tomatoes and sundried tomatoes. They do not like garlic so I used a lot of finely chopped onions and fresh basil. I used to serve this bowl of pasta together with the other food laid out for the buffet but the kids tend to ignore the salad and other food which is normally  made up with Burrata cheese and cheery tomatoes, steamed vegetables. The trick now is the pasta comes in as secondi but the kids being kids they would come to galley and make sure I have cooked their pasta.

portofino
Our last trip for the season was in Portofino. The kids certainly have grown up and are much more responsible. They even went out to the restaurant for dinner by themselves and I saw the boys sitting at the piazza ordering their breakfast.

But yet still when they come back to the boat they would still chorus… “Yours is the best pasta in the world.”

Posted in France, Food, Travel & Culture, Italy food & culture, Pasta & Rice

nacatole… prodotti tipici eoliani

August 17, 2009 by admin | Leave a comment

The day we arrived in Lipari, one of the seven of the Aeolian islands in north west Sicily, the chef went shopping with out me. Oh sob, but I asked him he better come back with a pastry with some nutty fillings with a scent of cinnamon.
You could hear the chef’s sigh, “pastry again…”

He did come back with a pastry filled with some chocolates but there was I was trying to explain to him again how it did look like.

I really have no idea how it is called. In July 2006 when we did our first trip with this boat months after she was launched we were in Lipari.
It was a trip non of us will ever forget because Italy won the World Cup against France that day.
And because we had a nanny on that trip I had more free time to go out with the chef.

My memory of it was the scent of the cinnamon and the intricate design of the pastry.
I was in town with the chef to help him with the shopping, rather to escape work, when we passed the bakery that literally engulfed with aroma of cinnamon.
That I went in and asked the lady which one is that the smells so great.
My memory of it was the shape and the taste that feels so Christmassy.

So the chef went out the next day again this time round he found the pastry, the wrapper says<
NOCATOLE ….prodotti tipici eoliani
Searching more information this is what I found out.
The “Nacatole” are traditional sweets of ancient origin, of various forms, which are prepared in families and local bakeries during the Christmas period. They are also sold throughout the year. This typically is consumed fresh and combines beautifully with the classic dessert wines such as Malvasia.
The little cellophane bag he brought cost €7.50 , well am not too surprised since it must be artisanal and from the flavour I know it has not been made months ago but rather very fresh.

I did search further information about how this pastry made and on the Lipari Biz site there is this interview.
how the pasty is done, there is no need for translation the video speaks for itself.

It is made of :
farina 00 (flour), strutto (lard) ,uova (eggs),zucchero (sugar),canella (cinnamon),mandorle (almonds), mandarini (mandarin),vanilla and vino bianco (white wine).

Few days later we were in Panarea the chef surprised me with another bag, this time though the the pastry have more fanciful design like flowers etc and there were round , oval shapes but before I could take photos of them, the crew already ate them all.

Other than terrific pastry the island full of capers and the fishmonger sells fresh tuna and swordfish.
Photos around the Aeolian… click the links below.

Lipari
Eolian .. Stromboli, Panarea, Lipari,
Panarea

Posted in General

kebabs at al charq

August 14, 2009 by Shalimar | 5 Comments

I first discovered this place in 1998 when I was based in Golfe Juan, thats just a train stop before Cannes, where all the glamour and glitter is.

Few boats down from ours was with Greek crew. One night they have asked me to join them for dinner at their boat and one of the crew arrived with bags full of kebabs. As they said the closest to home, thus the nearest to gyro or souvlaki we have in Greece.

al charq
And there were boxes of baklavas, I was in trance literally. Then I realised the boxes of baklavas we had on our boat came from the same shop.

Thus the beginning of my closest to home gyro in South of France.
Al Charq is situated just behind the posh Martinez Hotel in Cannes. I would meet up a Greek friend here for a quick bite and he would buy me some pieces of baklavas. Think the prices for the sweets are far to exorbitant, so having a piece or two is lovely treat.


Last Friday, we were anchored off in Cannes for the annual firework festival. In synchronised mind the crew whispered the same word. Kebabs.

Al charq?

In chorus … oui sil’ vous plait

AL CHARQ
20, rue Rouaze
06400 Cannes

Posted in General

the art of making “plateaux de fruits de mer”

June 18, 2009 by Shalimar | 8 Comments

I will never forget this place, the very first time I was in Antibes array of shelled food caught my eyes.
But that time I could not eat anything with shells but instead I had the most wonderful Sole Meuniere.

And since then I have always taken friends here for lunch or dinner. The outdoor dining at the pedestrian zone in Antibes is a very delightful place to idle time and enjoy those seafood while sipping chilled rose.

L’ Oursin has always been a part of the scenery of my day to day walk. I always have a peek what’s on the menu if I pass the place.
There are times I just pass by in hurry but I always take notice this man arranging the plates with the selection of shelled food.

By chance one day when I was not rushing he was preparing a plate, luckily I had my zoom lens so I was able to take photos while staying away from his work place and those waiters rushing to serve the clients.

Last week, I bought some oysters of course and enjoyed a friend’s company, great food are best shared with good friends.
L’Oursin
16, Rue R

Posted in France, Food, Travel & Culture, Sea Treasures Tagged , , |

… ricepudding (rizogalo) & a birthday

May 24, 2009 by Shalimar | 26 Comments

I took him to the Greek restaurant, the Greek Islands in Ft Lauderdale.
When selection of the dessert came we had baklava and rizogalo ( rice pudding).

He loves it.. then it dawned to me I never made rizogalo after all the years I live in Greece.
In the good old days (oh I feel old) when we first arrived in Athens 25 years ago, every area has a local bakey that sells freshly made goods.

Yes local bakery still exist but its not as the same. I mean I can see delivery vans now bringing in the goods.

That time in Greece, when its Sunday, you could see people walking to the bakery with tapsi (baking dish) early morning with their meat and potatoes where the bakery do the roasting for you.

Then you see arrays of Greek desserts made with in… so I never made my own rizogalo. I buy them.
When I was in Florida, I was missing a lot of Greek food.
For my comfort there is the Greek Isles.

One of those forays, we had rizogalo and C loves it.

So I decided that I must learn how to do this simple yet terrific dessert especially that I love rice.

I know to whom I will ask the recipe from. We never met but we have been reading each other’s blogs for sometime now. She does not know me personally but have just given me support with my constant moving.

And I have dug her archives for recipes. Laurie lives in Alaska, married to a Greek, spends time in Greece and wrote a book, “Tastes Like Home: Mediterranean Cooking in Alaska”.

She sent me a recipe but I never had the chance to look for the short grained rice I need for this recipe.
So I thought I can do this one when I have more time in Athens.. but never did. I was so busy when I was in Athens and I spent a lot of my time eating out.

Last week, when I was in Carrefour, doing my crew provision, I bought some cuttle fish and planned to do risotto. Right next to Arborio was another kind of rice. The label says riz special , dessert… my French is not bad after all..


I finally had the rice and the recipe so easy to follow.

Rice Pudding (Rizogalo)
Serves 6

1/2 cup short-grain rice
1 cup water
1 Tbsp. butter
4 cups whole milk, plus 2 Tbsp.
1/4 cup sugar
1 egg, separated into white and yolk
1 tsp. vanilla
Ground cinnamon

In a pot large enough to hold all the ingredients, mix the rice, water, and butter, bring to a boil, cover, turn the heat down as low as possible, and cook for 15 minutes. Stir in two cups of milk, bring almost to the boil, turn down the heat, and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in 2 more cups of milk and the sugar. Simmer until the liquid is the thickness of heavy cream.

Whisk together the egg yolk, vanilla, and 2 Tbsp. milk, and quickly whisk this mixture into the rice. Remove the pot from the heat. Beat the egg white until it

Posted in Greek Food & Culture, Pasta & Rice

a quest for organic eggs leads to an impromptu lunch… Holmsbu

May 15, 2009 by Shalimar | 3 Comments


I have been meaning to post this story five years back, yes as my diary and my file says April 29, 2005. But I never had the chance to do it.

But it does not mean its 5 years ago I have no memory of that day… It all started with a box of organic eggs which was bought at the organic store. It was marked which farm and through research we located the place. It was around one hour south of Oslo.

And so armed with a map, we journeyed down to the south. April in Norway is still cold but the ice starts melting and the landscape begins to bloom. It was a lovely drive seeing the boats around the fjords are slowly bobbing…

We did find the farm but it was close that day. So we checked on the map what is the nearest town in the area to walk around and from it I could see Holmsbu facing the fjord.

Heading towards there you pass a golf course and few nurseries selling selection of spring flowers ready for transplanting.

So I checked my guidebook what the place about but nothing. But really the spring air , the sea and the wonderful white houses do not need a guide. All you need is the sense of exploring new things.


Walking around Holmsbu passing some old houses, they have dates on the wall some dating back to 1700′s, the gardens are full of spring flowers, roses. We even saw many ladies some men too, prepping up their lovely gardens.

Towards the sea, you can see cabins and summer houses – a very typical Scandinavian summer houses. Basic and rustic. There is this little port and you can obviously see that fishing was then one of the main source of income. But its now mainly tourism. I found out though that there are still a few who fish commercially and sell their catch locally.

From the port I was just getting so hot and thirsty when I saw a small board sign for ice cream and drinks. We were cooling off when I noticed there is actually a menu (meny). With some basic norsk peppered with English, I asked the man if he was serving lunch.

The menu:

    Kremetfiskesuppe
    Marinert varmkort laks tilbehor
    Roffinert kreativ og velsmakend
    Renset Krabbe ir krabbesjell

    Rekesmorbrod egg og dressing

    Nyslekte fiskekraker slekte poteler

He showed me his fish soup and he said he can make a Sm

Posted in General, Norway Food, Travel & Culture, Sea Treasures Tagged , , |

Tortang Talong

May 5, 2009 by Shalimar | 9 Comments


Growing up in the Philippines, I could never understand my mother’s excitement when she was given aubergines and I would find her grilling them to burn the skin , then see her either beating eggs to make a torta or chopping tomatoes and onions for augbergine salad.

I never really had any affinity to these lovely vegetables until I found myself experimenting on food and cooking itself. Perhaps through blogging I have discovered so much about Filipino cooking.

What I love best on this torta (aubergine omelette) is the smokey taste of the grilled aubergine.
I don’t have charcoals to grill them over so I use the oven.

It’s really easy.
Simply prick the skin with a fork
Broil them until soft

Cool the aubergines. Then peel, I normally put the peeled aubergine on a paper to drain the excess liquid.

Beat one egg and coat the aubergine thinly.

Heat up oil on a non stick pan, once hot gently brown the aubergine and flip slowly try to keep the stem intact.

You can eat this cold as well but I prefer this hot which I paired with the salad.

Et voila, easy comfort food.

And so I am blogging here in France … We were in St Tropez the other day and we are given weekend off.

Posted in General

Gyros

April 4, 2009 by Shalimar | 13 Comments

Coming back home means endless wandering around my area. Having lived in the US on and off for the past year, Athens seems to be a world apart from Ft. Lauderdale, West Palm Beach where I have been based.

I go and look for the old faces, neighbourhood tavernas, grill, souvlaki places that seems stood timeless with the changes. These places keep going in spite the financial crisis and the social political shift of Greece.

As for my order gyro apo ola parakalo, meaning with tzastiki, onions ,tomatoes and maybe few chips.

More photos of Athens here... and here...

Posted in Greek Food & Culture